Diamonds and Rhubarb

French Jewelry Today, Part 6-Chaumet

2012-01-28T11:30:00.006+01:00

Detail from Le Sacre de Napoleon by Jacques-Louis David 1807 Louvre, Paris

Chaumet traces its origins to 1780. Founded by Marie-Etienne Nitot who along with his son Francois- Regnault Nitot they became the official jewelers to Napoleon I during the Consulate and the Empire.

Emerald and diamond necklace and earrings by Francois-Regnault Nitot

commissioned by Napoleon for his second wife Marie-louise.

Nitot et Fils were succeeded by Jean-Babtisste Fossin and his son Jules. In 1848 Jules Fossin set up a London branch with Morel. Morel's daughter married Joseph Chaumet in 1875. In 1885 he assumed the management of the firm and changed the name.

In 1907 he moved to 12 Place Vendôme.

Chaumet diamond tiara 1911

In the early 20th century Chaumet was best known for their tiaras, and exquisite jewels.

Chaumet diamond and pearl tiara 1915

Right, a design for a jeweled tunic by Chaumet

Left a design for the Maharani of Indore 1911

Art Deco ruby and diamond jewels 1930.

Chaumet gold diamond sapphire and ruby brooch and earrings 1935.

Gold and watermelon tourmaline brooch and earrings

Chaumet tried to keep up with the times.

In 1987Chaumet had liabilities in excess of 200 million pounds resulting from fraud and other illegal activities. The brothers Pierre and Claude Chaumet were convicted of bankruptcy fraud and sent to prison. Chaumet was bought in 1987 by Investcorp, a Bahrain based Investment Bank .The company and the brand were perceived as too traditional and too elitist. After the stigma of fraud the brand needed crisis management. Their decision was to depart radically form the past. Assuming "Chaumet will always be Chaumet" no matter what we make.
The firm was sold again in 1999 to LVMH
This brand has opulent digs on Place Vendôme with a museum and a resident historian!

Chaumet is the only heritage jewelry brand of over 100 years in the LVMH portfolio. Concentrating of on massive market penetration in the Middle East, Asia, Eastern Europe and Russia. where traditional jewelry connoisseurship is less highly evolved, and there is no tainted association form the scandals of the 1980's. They are also focusing on the lucrative business of watches.

"Celebrating its 200th year as a luxury watchmaker, Chaumet tapped into its heritage for its new creations, which feature references to the French jewelry house symbol, the bee, and its first muse and patron, French Empress Joséphine. The Attrape-moi…si tu m’aimes (Catch me if you love me) collection features 32 unique variations of an opal bee set against a honeycomb-patterned enamel dial. The Joséphine range, meanwhile, includes delicate watches in a teardrop shape inspired by the chérusque, a lace collar characteristic of Empire-style dresses, while another comes complete with a diamond tiara overlaid on the case. To mark the anniversary, Chaumet is opening its historic salons on Place Vendôme to the general public for an exhibition of exceptional timepieces".WWD July 5, 2011

B is for Bonaparte and now it is the bee which is the adopted emblem of Chaumet because of the patronage of Napoleon's first and second wives the Empress Joséphine and,
the Empress Marie Louise de Habsburg-Lorraine.

Some of the other designs are rather chaotic and disconnected.

Chaumet windows

LVMH is a massive merchandising, marketing, and retail machine. Fearlessly purveying "luxury" products throughout the world.

Can you identify which brand is which ?

In the annuls of jewelry history it is interesting to note the significant change of the multi-brand ownership which affects all design decisions. LVMH owns Chaumet, Fred, De Beers (license), Bulgari, and the fine jewelry development in their associated luxury group Dior (couture), and Louis Vuitton (luggage). There appears to be some similarities unifying all of the jewelry in the brands within the LVMH group. This may be due to shared senior management, designers, sources in the supply chain, and manufacturing. This may also be intentional.

Chaumet has the most amazing archives, they are so full of authentic inspiration, this rich vein has barely been tapped.

With Chaumet it very Simple they have effectively dummed-down their entire
heritage, and turned it into cartoons, a bee & a crown.

Chaumet ring

-------------
In conclusion there were there were 3 companies that were
more or less intact before their acquisitions by the multi-brand holding companies. In descending order:

Cartier,
Van Cleef & Arpels
and Boucheron

the first two have been brilliantly handled the third, miss-managed. The other three Mellerio dits Meller(which was not acquired, and is still in family hands), Mauboussin, Chaumet ...

I have specialized skills, design skills, analytical skills, historical knowledge combined with technical skills ( I am a trained fine jeweler and enamel expert). I recognize these competences when I see them.
I have the ability to go into archives and identify value, to define, create, and direct.
It frustrates me when I see incompetence. Boucheron's inept design strategy and window displays last summer, or

Chaumet windows Place Vendôme.

The lighting in the Chaumet windows cheapens the look of fine diamonds,
they look more like Swarovski aurora borealis glass.

There seems to be no memory, no cognition, or connection to heritage, and no one to interpret and develop this rich heritage in an original way.

This is disappointing to say the least.

Only 2 out of 6 brands in my survey, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels,
are relevant refined and enticing.

The rest are just churning out merchandize driven by marketing.

French Jewelry Today Part 5-Mauboussin

2012-01-20T13:19:00.006+01:00

Mauboussin's metro campaign

Mauboussin traces it's history to 1827 to a Monsieur Rocher who was succeeded by his collaborator Monsieur Noury In 1869. Georges Mauboussin, a nephew, joined the firm in 1898. The business became known as B. Noury, G. Mauboussin. They sold jewelry in the prevailing styles, short hand for no style of their own.

Vanity case, gold diamonds enamel, onyx, and mother-of-pearl, exhibited in 1925.

In 1925 Mauboussin exhibited in the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs where they won a Grand Prix. By this time they were developing a distinctive style of their own. Mauboussin attracted the wealthy Europeans, Indians prince, American millionaires, and Hollywood film stars as clients.

Mauboussin bracelet, chalcedony, agate, rose quartz, mother of pearl and diamonds 1927.

Goerge Mauboussin's son Pierre Mauboussin understood the power of the silver screen when he bejeweled some of Hollywood's leading ladies. This was prescient, if he lent the jewelry to a photo shoot he required a credit for the jewelry to be assigned to the photograph. He would eventually leave the business to pursue a career in aviation.

Actress Clare Luce wears Mauboussin Jewelry left.

Her emerald and diamond necklace right

On October 1, 1929 they opened a new salon in New York city, as it turned out it was very inauspicious timing. The stock market crashed on October 29, 1929. The great depression followed, and business suffered. The Parisian firm was left with a large inventory in America, they were anxious to withdraw with minimum losses. Mauboussin reached an agreement with the American firm Trabert & Hoeffer which would assume the name Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin.

Section of an advertisment in American Vogue, 1945

Marlene Dietrich

Marlene Dietrich's Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin emerald and diamond bracelet.

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin bracelet, citrine amethyst

and diamonds set in yellow gold

Mid 1930's.

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin produced some of the most dazzling American jewelry of the 1930's and 1940's. The associated trademark continued until the 1950's.

Bird Brooch, signed Mauboussin Paris 1968,

turquoise, gold, sapphires, rubies, emeralds,and diamonds.

Mauboussin opened a store on the Place Vendôme 1946. In 2002 Mauboussin was sold to the Swiss ficancier, Dominique Fremont. He hired Alain Némarq as CEO. Michel Gutsatz wrote a very insightful article about Mauboussin's new direction here.

The Mauboussin jewelry today is no longer even made in France according to Alain Némarq in a rescent article Mauboussin le joaillier Iconoclaste in the magazine Dreams Ete 2011, it is made in China. Do you think these products still bear the charm and refinement of Parisian art?
(Quote from the vintage add above). One of the distinguishing features of this brand was its "Frenchness". The styles are commercial, and look like jewelry one would expect to see being sold in mass market retailers in the United Sates. QVC also uses the name "Rose de France" for the pale-pinkish heat-treated amethyst seen in the ring on the right below. It seems they have managed to make 18 k gold jewelry look like inexpensive silver jewelry. Does Mauboussin's new direction reflect the brands heritage in any way?

Mauboussin window Place Vendôme Paris.

Pendant and rings set with blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, and pale amethyst ( Rose de France) set in 18k white gold.

Mauboussin window

The styling of these watches look like inexpensive Taiwanese knock-offs.

In my opinion the sharp points of this necklace look potentially dangerous, almost like a weapon rather than a piece of jewelry. It reminds me of a ninja throwing star.

An authentic ninja throwing star

The windows make the jewelry look cheap not chic.

Its like dragging the Mauboussin name down into the ground. Which is where they are running their advertising campaign in the Paris Metro.

Champs-Élysées store summer 2011

"Mauboussin has five stores in addition to the New York flagship — in Tokyo, Marseille and Luxembourg, as
well as two in Paris, on the Place Vendôme and the Champs-Élysées. Another store scheduled for Singapore. The jewelry also sells at 200 boutiques worldwide.
Prices start at about $300 and go up to about $15 million" WWD

Tokyo French jeweler's diamond giveaway draws long lines
Tuesday, June 2, 2009

"Lines curled around for blocks in Tokyo's Ginza district Monday for 5,000 tiny but free diamonds French jeweler Mauboussin was giving away in an attention-getting drive.
'The value of a diamond doesn't go down. And you never get tired of a diamond,' said Noriko Suzumaru, a 39-year-old housewife who jumped on a train from Kawasaki to stand in line after learning about the giveaway.
Suzumaru was among a crowd of bargain-hunters lined up for the 0.1 carat diamonds Mauboussin was offering to its first 5,000 customers. The gems are valued at about ¥5,000.
Mauboussin, founded 181 years ago in France, is encouraging people to get their free diamond made into rings and pendants at its store. But that will come at a cost, starting at about ¥50,000.
Mauboussin's flagship Japan store opened in Ginza in February.
But the store had often been empty because its name, though associated with international celebrities, isn't widely recognized among Japanese.
Many still don't even know how to correctly pronounce the name of the store." From the Associated Press

In the Japanese language there is no word for "Jewelry" there is a word for precious stone, it is Hoseki.

Last year I was contacted by Marguerite de Cherval the author of two books about Mauboussin. She had been hired to produce an exhibition tentatively titled "Mauboussin 100 Years of Service to Women". She wanted to find out where the beautiful vintage Mauboussin Jewelry was, jewelry like the jewels I had photographed for my books Hollywood Jewels, and American Jewelry : Glamour and Tradition.

This news lead me to wonder about why a brand would have an exhibition? For example was the recent Bulgari exhibition at the Grand Palais part of the prelude to their acquisition by LVMH?

Or could a proposed Mauboussin exhibition be a first step in an effort to reconnect and re-evaluate their own heritage, and their own design capital?

I can think of many elements in the Mauboussin archives that are gutsy and potentially show-stopping. As I have said before this is a highly specialized skill “to read the archives” and know what to do with them. Very few individuals or companies have this ability or the organizational support to develop it.

Two examples of brands that do this exceedingly well are Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels both owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA.

Place Vendôme, Paris November 14, 2011

French jewelry Today, Part 4-Van Cleef and Arpels, 22 Place Vendôme

2012-01-11T12:09:00.005+01:00

Van Cleef & Arpels was fully acquired by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA in 2003. Since then it appears they have been applying many of the proven strategies they have learned with Cartier. They appointed Nicolas Bos, who has been with Richemont since 1992, he is now vice president and worldwide creative director of Van Cleef, he is also president and chief executive officer of the jeweler’s Americas division. Van Cleef & Arpels recently mounted an exhibition at the Smithsonian, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum in New York, Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels. There is also a beautiful book with the same title.

A joint website was created (link), analyzing their history and the evolution of the their style told through their stellar client's jewels, one iconic piece at a time.

Alfred Van Cleef, and his two brothers-in-law Charles Arpels (1880-1951) and Julian Arpels (1884-1964) founded Van Cleef & Arpels in 1896. Both of the families had been in the gem business for several generations. In 1906 they open a shop at 22 Place Vendôme, where they are still located today. They were joined in 1912 by the youngest Arpels brother, Louis Arpels (1886-1976).

Image from the Jeweled Garden by Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata

Flexible bracelet, diamonds, buff cut rubies, and emeralds.

In 1925 Van Cleef & Arpels won the Grand Prix at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs for the above bracelet . A distinguishing aspect of of all Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is the focus on gem stones and flawless gem cutting.

1935 They pioneered and patented the Serti invisble or mystery setting.

Through out the 1930's they developed many innovative jewels like this
necklace which can be worn with either side facing forward.

1930's-1960's, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a prescious metal ornmental evening clutch for women. it was complete with compartments and accessories, it was called

La Minaudière, which was a trademark and a patent.

1938 Another patent, the Passe Partout

was an interchangeable jewelry concept. The gold gas-pipe (tobogas) chain with its clip-on ornaments one could wear it as a belt, a necklace, a bracelet, hat or hair ornaments, or dress clips. The flowers were set with multi-colored sapphires and rubies.

Van Cleef & Arpels opened a New York branch twice, in 1929, and again permanently in 1939.

through out the 1940's they developed a narrative-style with natural themed

gem-set flowers, birds, ballerinas, and magical faeries.

Louis Arpels, was a friend of Marlene Dietrich's he had this bracelet made form gems in her collection.

Grace Kelly 1955

Grace Kelly wears the pearl and diamond jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels

commisioned by His Majesty Prince Rainier of Monaco to celebrate their engagement.

During the 1950's Claude Arpels (1911-1990) traveled to India to acquire important stones.

After Indian Independence Maharajas were eager to exchange gems for currency.

He brought back dazzling gems, and antique Indian jewelry which influenced the development of a lavish Indian style. These evocative jewels were exotic, bold, and colorful.

Van Cleef & Arpels Indian Style jewels

American Vogue 1963
In 1954 Van Cleef & Arpels was the first major jeweler to create a boutique next door
to sell a line of less exclusive jewels.

Alhambra necklace gold, lapis lazuli, and malachite.

The boutiques line continues to this day

The new collection

Elizabeth Taylor Photographed by Cecil Beaton 1971

Nicolas Bos, said the new collection, Les Bals de Legend was inspired by a photo of Liz Taylor taken by Cecil Beaton in 1971 at the Proust Ball given by Baron and Baroness de Rothschild. She wore a major gold and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, woven into her hair.

Van Cleef & Arpels new collection is debuting along with the publication of a beautiful book
Bals: Legendary Costume Balls of the Twentieth Century’ by Nicholas Foulkes published by Assouline. Read about the book and jewelry party here
The inspirations are the themes, personalities, and locations of these legendary balls. This evocative concept taps the yearning for a time of refined splendor and celebration.

Guests attending these fancy dress balls dressed extravagantly, they were resplendent and bejeweled. These were lavishly designed events, with dancers and music. Attendance was by invitation-only. The were famously photographed, and chronicled these balls are still talked about all of these years later;

I can't recall another jewelry launch tied-in tothe publication of a book where the book is about the source of the inspiration, and not the collection itself. What a brilliant source this is, one that is so identified with luxury and desire.

Image WWD

A piece form the new collection "the kingfisher necklace" inspired by Baron Alexis de Redé’s
‘Le Bal Oriental’, 1969, which was one of the most extravagant parties ever given in Paris. The form of this jewel is that of a Chinese jewel. These jewels were made with actual kingfisher feathers, This Van Cleef & Arpels jewel is made with turquoise, diamonds, and pinkish-red spinels.

The windows

The current windows are an ultra-modern chinoiserie, with shocking pink manga-colors. They communicate a progressive global aesthetic that is very trendy, feminine, and a little playful. The new jewels are deeply enriched by heritage of this house. Their fine jewelry competence is evident in the exquisite stones and flawless workmanship.

Emerald and diamond beads, with diamond set elements, in this multi-strand oriental style necklace,
which was inspired by the Le Bal Oriental.

Diamond necklace with round, calibré-cut diamonds, and a diamond briolette drop.

The opulence of this new collection is heralding a new age of elegance.

An elegant diamond necklace which evokes a lace collar, with tassels.
This style necklace taps deeply into the the heritage.

A heritage jewel from the archives it belonged to the Pincesse de Réthy
( born, Mary Lilian Baels, 28 November 1916 – June 2002) the second wife of King Leopold III
of Belgium.Van Cleef & Arpels produced a number of collar and ruffle inspired necklaces.

Brooch inspired by Le Bal Oriental

This necklace is reminiscent of Chinese passementerie.

I imagine the last dowager Empress of China, who had a preference for pearls.

"With regard to jewelry, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels were top performers during the year", said Richard Lepeu, deputy ceo of Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, “a very broad base of merchandise and price points were driving sales in the jewelry division overall. He added, however, that sales of the ultrahigh-end items — those costing more than $1 million — were “less buoyant.” WWD May 19, 2011

This comment was made before the debut of this new collection.
This article was written in the summer of 2011, and first published last fall.

Part 3, Boucherone 26 Place Vendôme

2012-01-01T12:44:00.004+01:00

Image Boucheron,Gilles Neret,1988

In 1858 Frederic Boucheron (1830-1902) opened his first Jewelry Salon in the Palais Royal.

Image Archives secretes, Vincent Meylan, editions Telemaque, 2009

Boucheron Necklace 1899, for Mary-Louise McKay the wife of the

American silver prospector and millionaire John McKay.

The Jewelry of Frederic Boucheron was imaginative and daring. He attracted some of the wealthiest and most notorious clients of his day. The grace, fluidity, and proportions of the 19th century Boucheron diamond pieces were remarkable.

Following are a few examples of historic works by Boucheron.

Image Christie's

Boucheron 1898, Corsage ornament, diamond leaves set in silver over gold

opalescent and transparent pink plique-a-jour enamel blossoms.

Image Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910

Thomas Heneage & Co Limited, London

Engraved diamond and ruby bee brooch, 1894

the wings are mounted on springs, they tremble, the effect is dazzling.

Image Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910

Thomas Heneage & Co Limited, London

This Bocheron Pansy watch,1890-95, is silver-gilt, made with sapphires,

demantoid, spessartine, and hessonite garnets, amethysts and diamonds.

Boucheron's unique diamond question mark spring necklaces,

this one designed by head designer Paul Legrand 1882

Frederic Boucheron eventually worked with his own in-house designers an craftsmen.

In 1893 Boucheron has the distinction of being the first jeweler to set up shop in the Place Vendome.

At 26 Place Vendôme, where they are still located today.

Boucheron exhibited in many of the international expositions. The Philadelphia centennial 1876.

Paris exposition universelles1889, and 1900. The Chicago Colombian exposition of 1893.

Perfume bottle, 1895

Chalcedony, emeralds,diamonds set in silver with a gold bell

the head tips back to reveal the scent bottle

Boucheron Brooch 1900, gold, pliqu-a-jour enamel, aquamarine, rubies, opal, chrysoberyls.

Image Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair with Jewelry Simon& Schuster, 2003

Image Boucheron,Gilles Neret,1988

Brooch exhibited in 1925 at the Exposition Des Arts Decoratifs

In the 1930's Boucheron attracted the new royalty, the movie stars of Hollywood.

Joan Crawford (1905-1977)

Images Archives secretes, Vincent Meylan, editions Telemaque, 2009

Boucheron parure for Joan Crawford, gold aquamarines, and diamonds.

In the late 1980's I met Alain Boucheron several times. He came to New York to borrow Boucheron pieces from the collector I worked for. These were some of the finest pieces ever made by the house.

In 2000 Boucheron was acquired by the Gucci group who were then acquired by PPR.

Who is Boucheron today?

During the early days of the acquisition of Boucheron, the Gucci group was under the over all design direction of Tom Ford who had revitalized the Gucci brand. Mr. Ford is a consummate fashion professional, but he was not a jewelry professional. He appointed the trendy Londoner, Solange Azagury Partridge, as creative director. I met Solange many years ago in London when she worked for my friend Gordon Watson in sales at his gallery. She has no formal training in Jewelry, but worked with Gordon’s wonderful collection of 20th century jewelry and decorative arts. I do not know what she did at Boucheron or how it translated into bottom line sales. The Gucci group has since been acquired by PPR, Tom Ford has been long gone,

and Boucheron presently seems some what confused.

There have been several one-off design stints in recent years.

From within the PPR stable drawn from Alexander McQueen, is McQueen's favorite

jeweler, Shaun Leane. Leane was chosen to design a necklace to commemorate Boucheron's 150th year of business. I like Mr. Leane's work it highly identifiable as "Leane", like post-modern crown of thorns, but is it "Boucheron"?

Image Wallpaper, the necklace closed, and open.

What is the Boucheron style in the 21st Century?

Image WWD

Marc Newson, the renowned product designer, created a mathematically generated fractal necklace. This was an interesting computer-age ultra-modern concept. Yet it was not incorporated within an overall design and identity strategy. These individual pieces are like blips on a radar screen.

The current Haute Joaillerie seems disconnected, unbalanced, stiff, and at times quite inelegant. It is a shame given Boucheron's extraordinary history.

The displays are at times sloppy and incoherent.

Here is a diamond bracelet or watch you can not see!

Poor presentation.

This is an interesting ring which is very poorly displayed.

The following designs seem unrelated.

If the above pieces were not signed could you identify them as uniquely Boucheron?

In the Boucheron windows I have not seen differentiated style, iconic products, or a well communicated identity. There appears to be no guiding light directing how to utilize the

brand's heritage and design assets to assert a coherent identity.

The potential of this brand does not appear to be understood or utilized.

-------

Since this article was first published in 2011, PPR owned Boucheron has hired a new president, "creative director" and marketing personal, the results of which remain to be seen.

Update

New windows

Place Vendôme January 26, 2012

French Jewelry Today, Part 2, Mellerio dits Meller

2011-12-27T18:01:00.001+01:00

Next door to Cartier at 9 Rue de la Paix

behind a beautiful wooden facade is

The Mellerio family traces its origins to the Lombardy region of Italy in the16th Century.
This is the oldest brand in France and virtually unknown outside of France, except for a handful of collectors and jewelry historians. My sister who shops at Harry Winston has never heard of them,
and she is not alone.

Engraving of a goldsmiths shop 1576

They were jewelers and goldsmiths. Some of the family moved to Paris in 1515. They prospered and became royal jewelers to the court of Louis XIII.

In 1635 they were granted to use of of the name Meller. Hence Mellerio dits Meller.

During the revolutions of 1789 and 1849 Mellerio relocated to Spain. In

Madrid they were appointed as a supplier to the court of Queen Isabella II of Spain.

Mellerio dits Meller circa 1860
Very fine Second Empire parure, gold, emeralds, diamonds, pearls, and enamel.

The Mellerio family re-established in Paris. They participated in many of the international expositions .

The Mellerio exhibit at the London World Ehibition of 1862.

They exhibited in Paris in 1867, in Vienna in 1873, and again in Paris in 1878 and 1900.

Extraordinary Mellerio neck ornament 1895 .

They also exhibited in The Exposition des Arts Decoratifs 1925.

Mellerio dits Meller tiara, 1867
Made for Queen Isabella II of Spain in the shape of a scallop shell

set with diamonds, diamond briolettes, and pearls.

The tiara of Queen Isabella II worn by Queen Victoria-Eugenie of Spain (1887-1969),

Granddaughter of Queen Victoria, photo circa 1930's

Mellerio exhibited at the 1939 Worlds Fair in New York.

Mellerio brooch 1942
During the Nazi occupation gemstone supplies were limited.
This bird's blue plumage is plique-a-jour enamel, which
is backless and as transparent as a stained glass window.

Mannequin wearing jewels by Mellerio 1950's

The French jewelry dynasty Mellerio dits Meller is still in business, and still in the original family this distinguishes them as France‘s oldest luxury brand. Unique for this fact alone, but is that enough.?

They are a family enterprise that has survived centuries of business, the reign of terror, various wars, and the Nazi occupation of Paris. They have catered to noble families and the wealthy elite with jewels in keeping with prevailing fashion in every stylistic epoch. Styles such as16th, 17th, 18th century, Empire, Second Empire, romatic revivals, Renaissance revival, archeological revival, Art Nouveau, Louis XVI revival, Art Deco, and the retro style of the late 1930’s-1950's.
The most interesting thing about Mellerio today is their history. Unfortunately this history in not at all reflected by the products displayed in their windows.

This ring looks like one of thousands available in the jewelers district of 47th street in New York City
I am an American therefore I am not over-awed by the royal
patronage associated with this jewelry house.

What I want to see is a unique differentiated style, Iconic products, and good design.

These jewels look like products sold on TV shopping in America, on QVC, or Home Shopping

Network. The only difference is that these are 18 k gold rather than 14 k gold.

Mellerio dits Meller advertisment

The jewelry displayed in Mellerio's windows appears to be a random selection.
The jewels are ultra-conservative and rather bland.

I do not see a clear vision, with iconic products, or particularly good design.
This is a shame given their long illustrious history.

On the positive side the jewelry appears to be well made with very nice stones.

French Jewelry Today, Part 1- Cartier

2011-12-17T13:11:00.016+01:00

I am a published writer in the field of jewelry history and decorative arts. I work as a writer, an illustrator, a jewelry historian, a designer, a design analyst and jewelry brand identity specialist. I trained as a fine jeweler, and I am an enamel expert. For many years I restored important enamel piecesby, Faberge, Cartier, 18th Century snuff boxes, 19th and 20th century jewels, vanity cases, and clocks. I have has worked for museums, auction houses, dealers, and important collectors. For a decade I worked with a prominent collector of jewelry and precious objects in New York where I assisted with sales to private clients,

corporations, and loans to major museums.

When I moved to France 15 years ago there was a seismic change underway in the world of high-end jewelry and watches. This was lead by Richemont’s Vendome group and its acquisition of Cartier.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Mauboussin, Chaumet and Mellerio dits Meller were all still in the hands of the heirs. This was a closed intimate world of retailers, suppliers, and workshops. Their treasured clients often bought from several of them. The principles of these firms all knew each other having grown up in the business, some of them with family members on both sides of the Atlantic.

An example of this intimate world, is a project I did in the 1980’s. I was asked by the late Claude Arpels, who headed the American operations of the Van Cleef & Arpels to restore an antique enamel brooch for a very special client, the client turned out to be Elizabeth Taylor. The piece was not by Van Cleef & Arpels but an Art Nouveau plique-a-jour enamel butterfly brooch by Boucheron, circa 1900.
Elizabeth Taylor was so pleased with the restoration that when my team and I were working on our second book, Hollywood Jewels, Abrams, New York, 1992. Elizabeth Taylor personally sent her fabulous Krupp diamond ring, and her Spanish crown jewel pearl necklace, La Peregrina, to us in New York to photograph for our book. At that time her jewels were transported from L.A. to New York by Cartier as a favor to her.

The biggest Change today is the ownership of these venerable old brands.

Have a look at he chart below.

I would like to take you down Rue de la Paix and around Place Vendôme. We will look at the venerable French jewelry houses of 100 years or more who are still in business today. In order of appearance, I will discuss, Cartier, Mellerio dits Meller, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, and Chaumet. I will give you a brief history of each firm, and then take a look into their windows to see what is happening with French jewelry today.

13 Rue de la Paix

Today Cartier is Part of the Richemont group. Any brand astute enough to appoint a director of image, style, and heritage understands fully who they are, what they own, where the value is, and how to tell their story. They understand how to communicate this with every product , advertisement, store window, packaging, exhibitions, catalogs and numerous books.

Cartier was founded in 1847 by Louis Françoise Cartier.

His three grandson's Louis (1875-1942), Pierre (1878-1965), and Jacques (1884-1942),

developed the firm into a distinguished international jeweler, watchmaker, and clockmaker.

Image Christie's

Cartier stomacher circa 1909

Cartier was a trend setter not a style follower.

In 1898-1899 Louis Cartier decided to set up an in-house design studio.

Cartier did not create jewels in the Art Nouveau style. During this period they were known for the most elegant platinum and diamond jewels in the neo-classical and Louis XVI-revival styles, or as it is now referred to, the garland-style.

Cartier Tonneau wristwatch, Paris 1907

Cartier lead the way with luxury wrist watches. As early as 1888 they

offered ornamental ladies wrist watches, this concept really took off after 1904.

The three brothers were joined by Jeanne Toussaint,
Louis Cartier's mistress. Her influence was profound,
she was eventually appointed director of fine jewelry in 1933.

Jeanne Toussaint

Jeanne Toussaint was not an artisan or an artist. She was very chic and had unerring eye for style. She was a brilliant design analyst who could articulate what worked and what didn't. She directed her designers and craftsmen to create remarkable jewels for nearly 55 years.

image Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Sotheby's, 1987

Jeanne Toussaint is credited with creating the concept for Cartier's famous great cat jewels.

Audry Hepburn Harper's Bazaar 1953

Audry Hepburn in wearing these Cartier coral, diamond, and platinum coffee beans earrings
which developed by Jeanne Toussaint who was the artistic director until the firm left family hands in the 1960's

When Cartier was sold the 1960's,
the three branches were split-up, each with a different owner.

In 1972 a group on investors lead by Joseph Kanoui, and Robert Hocq who was the president of Cartier Paris, started the reacquisition of Cartier. Robert Hocq and Alain Dominique Perrin developed the global marketing concept Les Musts de Cartier with its associated line of products. The three original branches, Paris, London and New York were reunited and merged with Les Musts de Cartier in 1976.

In 1983 an initiative was started by the Late Eric Nussbaum to re-acquire the best pieces ever made by Cartier.

Each addition to the Cartier collection is thoroughly researched and given its original number form the well maintained archives. This collection today numbers over 1360 pieces. The collection illustrates the evolution of the dynamic Cartier style. It contains jewelry, tiaras, accessories, objet d’art, boxes, smoking accessories, horology, and watches. Everything and anything from jewels, toys to tools, even a playful gold yoyo, and can opener!

No other jewelry or watch brand has so assiduously studied their heritage. They have analyzed the evolution of their style, identified the iconic products. and evolved methods of new product development that are relevant and appealing. They have developed a communication strategy that is superbly integrated and coherent. A Cartier product is known for unsurpassed quality, it is instantly recognizable, timeless, distinctive, and highly differentiated. It takes a great deal of knowledge and experience to "read archives", and to analyze and evaluate their collection. The understanding of where the brand came from, and how to draw on that heritage to continue to develope in a modern context is the job of Pierre Rainero artistic, image, strategy, and heritage director. He has been with Cartier for 27 years since 1984. With a background in advertising and marketing. One could say he now holds the memories and articulates them with perfect pitch. This enables him to make the necessary design decisions like Jeanne Toussaint did in the past, he is responsible for
"le goût Cartier".

" My role is to take a decision based not on my personal taste but a frame of mind which, for decades has been steeped in Cartier's savoir-faire" Pierre Rainero .

An integral part of their heritage discovery has been an important series of world-wide exhibitions, along with the exhibition catalogs, and gorgeous illustrated books. Working with acknowledged scholars in the field, these exhibitions have also been very important because they serve to forge a connection between the local populations and Cartier, weather it is in China, Russia, Europe, or America. The exhibitions have lifted the perception of Cartier's creations, elevating them to a level worthy of being shown in world-class museums.These exhibitions have successfully generated a growing awareness kindling desire in a new generation of global customers. They do this by telling the brand's "story" one iconic product at a time. Cartier knows better than anyone that every jewel tells a story.

With each successive exhibition their knowledge and competence has grown along with their ability to communicate, manage, and develop Cartier in the 21st Century.

Following is a brief exhibition and publishing history from 1982 to the present.

The first exhibition celebrating the Cartier style “Retrospective Louis Cartier” was held in 1982
at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

The success and interest generated by this first retrospective was followed by the late
Hans Nadelhoffer’s (1940-1988) pioneering and brilliantly researched book
Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, Abrams, New York, 1984.
This book was re-published in 2007, by Chronicle Books.

"l'Art de Cartier" was a dazzling exhibition at the Musee du Petit Palais in Paris, 1989/1990.

A second "l'Art de Cartier" was held at the Ermitage Museum in St. Petersburg Russia in 1992.

Many exhibitions followed, notably at The Metropolitan Museum in New York, followed by The British Museum in1997.

Cartier and America at the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco 2009

Cartier's 100 Years in America 2009 in New York.
This was celebrated along with Bruce Weber's book,
Cartier I Love You.

On rue de la Paix the Cartier windows are elegant.
They seamlessly communicate the brand's heritage.

The pallet is sophisticated, subtly suggesting the finest art deco interiors.

This necklace is a contemporary use of the classic Cartier panther-skin motif.

Cartier's first piece with the panther-skin motif, from 1914.
Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, Hans Nadelhoffer, Chronicle books, 2007

Advertisement fromVogue Espana, No. 14
Cartier's integrated communication strategy.

A contemporary tiger, a great cat bracelet.

Cartier windows June 2011
This necklace is a contemporary take on a definitive heritage-style.

A Cartier chimera wrapping around a cascade of red rubies. The clasp is an orientalist cloud
swirling with diamonds, and trailing diamond briolette drops.

Cartier bracelet, 1929 platinum, diamonds,
sapphires, emeralds, and rock crystal.

Trinity Bangle
The trinity concept was first developed by Cartier in 1924.

Cartier watches, June 2011.
Cartier continues to be a world leader in fine watches as well as jewelry.
The Richemont group is a smart learning organization, they are continually leveraging their accumulated knowledge, expertise, and resources.

It's a Secret

2011-11-15T18:35:00.005+01:00

Hey girl! Where do you keep your stash?

Just when we thought jewelry companies knew nothing about target marketing.

A new collection from a fashion icon who has been identified with the use of mood enhancing substances.

Girls who love to party-
next time you're out at a night club in Miami, LA, London, New York, Milan, or Paris....

Weather you are an ethereal Fairy Queen or a Lucrezia Borgia wanna bee.

You could keep your chocolate caviar pellets in it.

They will lift your mood and melt in your hands, what else would you put in there?

The Pink Panther Meets Cartier

2011-11-14T17:52:00.002+01:00

Ring by Dior

yellow gold and enamel

Context At A Glance

2011-11-13T15:35:00.000+01:00

1937

Today

Now and Then

2011-11-04T16:13:00.000+01:00

NOW Coco Rocha's jewelry

for Senhoa, an organization helping Cambodian victims of human trafficking.

THEN beautiful inspiration

Suzanne Belperron, the Genuine Article

2011-10-30T15:37:00.026+01:00

Suzanne Belperron Platinum and diamond bracelet for Bernard Herz 1936

Vogue 1936, mannequin with the above

bracelet by Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Vuillerme later Belperron (1900-1983), was born in Eastern France.

She was intrepid, courageous, and extraordinarily talented. Suzanne Belperron was one of the most innovative and original jewelry designers of the 20th century.

As a young woman She left home to study art at the École des Beaux-Arts in Besançon. She was hired in 1921 by Jeanne Boivin head of the firm founded by her husband Rene Boivin who died in 1917. The Boivin firm was well established, they were known for their bold designs. Suzanne Vuillerme married civil engineer Jean Belperron in 1924.

Gold and diamond brooch by Boivin after a design by Suzanne Belperron

Belperron distinguished herself at Boivin. In 1932 left Boivin to work with a Bernard Herz.

Dress design Madame Gres

Suzanne Belperron was a beautiful stylish woman with a tremendous eye for style and design.
I can imagine her wearing the creation of Madame Gres during the 1930's-1940's
with her wonderful jewelry

Ring, yellow gold, fancy colored diamonds.

She literally pushed the boundaries, in this bracelet the stones are hanging over the edges.
She was masterful in her use of multiple stone setting technics.

In this brooch she used, pave set diamonds in patinum and yellow gold bezel set rubies.
the patterns and surface textures are dynamic

Yellow gold bezels and pave set rubies with yellow diamonds.

Bracelet, yellow gold, sapphire beads, sapphires, and diamonds.
By Susanne Belperron circa 1940

Suzanne Belperron wears a Clip brooch at the decollete, with one of her signature rock crystal rings.

Clip brooch, rose Quarts enamel, and yellow diamonds.

Clip brooch rock crystal enamel and diamonds

Photogragh by Hoyningen-Huene 1934

Jewelry by Belperron for Herz

The Dark history of the war years in France.

Suzanne Belperron was a much sought after European jewelry designer. She was a jeweler's jeweler. In 1939 she received numerous letters with job offers urging her to leave Europe. She wanted to stay with her husband who was working in occupied France.

Bernard Herz was an important pearl dealer in Paris. Herz was also Jewish, like so many of the French Jews he was deported. Madame Belperron secured Benard Herz's release once, but failed a second time. Bernard Herz was sent to a camp. Many Jewish families and merchants were in fact turned in to the Nazis by the French.

Heroically In 1941 Suzanne Belperron set up a holding company under her name to protect the remaining assets of the Herz family, for Bernard and his son Jean. Herz's buisness had been declared a Jewish enterprise; as such like many Jewish properties, the assets were subject to theft and unregulated sales which benefited the Germans and the French collaborators.
Sadly Bernard Herz died in 1943. His son Jean survived the war. He returned to Paris and in 1946. The firm of Herz-Belperron was born.

Suzanne Belperron's use of carved hardstones, like rock crystal, smoky quartz, rose quartz, and chalcedony was unique. She made hardstone sensual and soft, by playing with voluptuous shapes and surface finishes (matte or polished). She inlaid these evocative carvings with precious stones in innovative settings.

Ring rock crystal, diamonds and cabochon emerald.

Ring designs by Madame Belperron.

Bracelet, carved smoky quartz, and cabochon sapphires.

Clip brooch, chalcedony, pearls, and diamonds by B. Herz 1933

Chalcedony diamonds brooch and earrings B. Herz.

Clip brooches rock crystal, enamel and diamonds

Brooch, chalcedony, yellow gold, with calibre-cut emeralds and cabochon-cut emeralds.

A fantastic collection of Belperron hardstone and gem-set flower brooches
These are the real thing!

Suzanne Belperrom did not sign her work nor did she have a poincon (French Hallmark) her pieces were signed by the ateliers that worked for her. Some are signed by B Herz, and Herz-Belperron. This is why the forthcoming book about Suzanne Belperron will be called

BELPERRON: My Style is My Signature, Due in 2012.

in French Vogue September 1935 mention is made of Madame Belperron a Chez Herz.

Pictured here is the wife of the artist Max Ernst, photographed By Horst.

Suzanne Belperron dress clips smoky quartz platinum and diamonds 1935

Madame Belperron had many stellar clients amongst the taste and style makers, royalty, and celebrities of her day, like Diana Vreeland, and Elsa Schiaparelli, and the Duchess of Windsor, to name just a few.

Diana and Reed Vreeland at El Morroco 1938.

Mrs. Vreeland is wearing her Belperron bracelet.

Photo by Jerome Zerbe from the Power of Style by Annett Tapert and Diana Edkins

Image of Mrs Vreeland's bracelet from
Bijoux Art Deco et Avant -Garde, Norma Editions 2009.

Belperron yellow gold and pearl bracelet for the Duchess of Windsor

The Duchess of Windsor's blue chalcedony, diamond, and sapphire set.

Brooch, amethysts, diamonds, and emerald briolettes

the briolettes are detachable.

Madame Belperron kept up with style, she was an admirer of Balenciaga.

In 1963 Suzanne Belperron was awarded the Legion d'honneur for her efforts with the french resistance, and her lifetime of artistic excellence. She retired in 1974.

In 1999 the Herz-Belperon, and the Suzanne Belperron names and archives were sold to Ward Landigan who owns Verdura. See their site (Here)

Today Landrigan’s son Nico, President of Verdura, is responsible for re-launching Belperron brand. Beginning with a richly illustrated biography entitled
BELPERRON: My Style is My Signature, due in 2012, Nico and Ward will pay homage to one of the 20th Century’s greatest female jewelers.

The name and copyright to the archives of Suzanne Belperron, whose work was also known under the names B. Herz and Herz-Belperron, are owned by Belperron, LLC, a privately-held corporation. A selection of Belperron’s original pieces are available for sale at the
Verdura flagship store at 745 Fifth Avenue in New York.

I am really looking forward to this book it will be beautiful with dazzling art direction and photography.
She was a true trailblazer her work continues to influence many designers working today. She was a true original.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Suzanne Belperron by Sylvie Raulet, and Olivier Baroin, was published in October 2011, In French.

I did not use it as a reference for this article, but I bought it as soon as it became available.

I have been aware that there my be an issue between two archives.
One In France and one in New York. I chose not to discuss it.

I wonder, Is there a Trademark and Copyright dispute?

Is the French archive going to be commercialized?
Will the owners be in the jewelry business reproducing designs?

Under what brand name would they be sold?

I have a keen interest in jewelry brand identity.

Going Batty

2011-10-24T18:41:00.001+02:00

Rene Lalique Choker,

gold, baroque pearl, and enamel.

Could be worn on wide velvet ribbon

Art Nouveau grey pearl, gold, diamond, and enamel brooch.

Die Fledermaus

Do You Believe in Magic

2011-09-28T12:35:00.222+02:00

Do you believe in Magic?

I do.

The pure magic of crystals

Image Christie's

I believe in the energy of color. Colors have the capacity to arouse emotions.

Color can quicken the pulse, and

make one giddy.

This happened to me the first time I saw a genuine Kashmir sapphire it literally took my breath away.

I felt as if I were tumbling inexorably into the eternal blue.

The first Burma ruby I ever saw was electrifying. It was radiant, glowing with

an exciting inner liveliness. This quality is not found in other rubies.

When under a UV light it fluoresces like the tail light of a Ferrari.

Did you know that rubies and sapphires are actually the same mineral, corundum?

Image Christie's

An antique violet sapphire and diamond brooch.

Sapphires come in multiple colors, violet, orange, yellow, pink. When corundum is red it's a ruby.

Antique Siberian amethyst and diamond necklace.

Did you know that Amethysts from Siberia have pink fire?

Amethysts are quartz just like citrine, brownish smoky, orange, green, and rose quartz.

Quarts comes in purple, orange, green , rose, brown,

One can not help but wonder thinking about this magical array.

Opals are outrageous.

There are even bright orange ones called fire opals.

White, green,yellowish heliodor, aquamarine, pink morganite, these are all beryls.

So subtle are the limpid beryls.

Emeralds are beryl's too.

White is every color of the rainbow held within.

"White strikes us like a great silence that seems absolute. Internally we feel it is like a non-sound, similar to musical pauses which interrupts the development of a phrase. It is a rich potential. It is the youth of nothingness" Wassily Kandinsky

Kate and Fred

2011-09-25T12:07:00.004+02:00

Image B. Stern, from DREAMS joaillerie Automne 2011

Recently re-married and re-imagined rehab-renegade Kate Moss

Is designing (?) a jewelry line for LVMH owned FRED.

The collection is based on her scintillating
Tattoos.

With Pride

2011-09-23T15:00:00.007+02:00

The La D de Dior Watch

A multi-gem rainbow array

Estimated price $389,672.00
286,397€ or £250,000

Ad Sense

2011-09-23T14:37:00.003+02:00

What do you think about when you see this ad?

I think of this

Ad Sense or Nonsense

If You've Got It Flaunt It ! Part 1

2011-09-12T16:25:00.001+02:00

Josephine Baker(1906-1975) at her loveliest photographed by Hoyningen-Huene.

She is wearing three of my favorite neck rings, by Jean Dunand (1927)

Gold plated metal, inlaid with lacquer

This will be an ongoing series

A Walk around Place Vendôme Part Two, Cartier

2011-07-24T20:37:00.000+02:00

Lace bow brooch Cartier 1906.
Read part two of my walk around Place Vendôme, Cartier, here
Wealthy Edwardian costumers of Cartier would shop at Worths and stay at the Ritz.

Jeanne Toussaint

The stylish world was forever changing,
Cartier has always been leading the way.

Rue de la Paix and Place Vendôme are the epi-center of French Haute Joaillerie.

Eye on Place Vendôme as a Guest Blogger, Part 1

2011-07-17T11:54:00.021+02:00

A Walk Around

Place Vendôme

I am pleased announce a series of guest blogs for Michel Gutsatz of the Brandwatch blog I am contributing a series of articles analyzing the history and the current state of the venerable French jewelry houses on the fabled Rue de la Paix and Place Vendôme.

Explore this blog it is incredibly insightful.
In either French or English.

We moved to France 14 years ago because my husband went to graduate school at the French business school, ESSEC. At that time ESSEC had the only International Luxury Brand Management MBA program in the world. We met Michel Gutsatz because he was the founder and chairman of the ESSEC MBA program. He created this program through long standing relationships and partnerships with L’Oréal, LVMH, The Estée Lauder Companies, Cartier, Montblanc, Escada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Firmenich and many more.

Today Michel is a highly respected international brand specialist and consultant, he is part of The Scriptorium Company, a Brand Strategy Agency whose clients encompass investment funds, luxury brands, mass brands and retailers. He also writes books, articles, gives conferences, and blogs.

There will be six more installments continuing through the fall. The next part will look at Cartier, followed by Mellerio dits, Meller, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, and Chaumet.
I hope you enjoy it

Bully for You

2011-06-17T11:58:00.000+02:00

Carved from a single block of agate

this charming little (4 cm x 6 cm) Bully has peridot eyes

and a little ruby medallion suspended form a gold link collar. He might have been made for

Faberge or Sumin & Co by Alexandre Denissoff-Ouralsky.

I love French bulldogs and hard stone carvings.

-A French Bulldog a la Russe.-

It is still possible to commission new work in this manner in

Idar-Oberstein Germany

Image Olivier Coutau-Begarie

When is it Original?

2011-04-30T17:53:00.003+02:00

Josephine Baker Casino De Paris 1927
One year after her debut with her banana skirt at the
Theatre des Champs-Elysees in the Revue Negre in 1926.

Paul Colin Folio 1927

Prada earrings, 2011

April 24, 2011

2011-04-24T14:44:00.000+02:00

Dior's Little Shop of Horrors

2011-04-18T23:30:00.012+02:00

Feeeeed Me Seymour!!, Feeed meeee!!!!

Did you notice the remarkable resemblance between the ring above by Dior Haute Joaillerie
and the alien-pod-plant-mother in the film Little Shop of Horrors?

And yes these are really "precious jewels" not cheeky costume jewelry. What else would one possibly think? No, the ring band is not made with an anodized-aluminum knitting needle. The beads were not assembled by a crafty soul for an Etsy boutique or a craft fair.

They are in fact really gold with real colored stones, diamonds, and acrylic automotive
lacquers and epoxy. No other medium could produce

these other-worldly colors, colors not found in nature,
but found on airbrushed skate boards and graffiti-covered walls.

Fleurs d’Excès or

Fleur du Mal

This rare edition is available from my friend at Librairie Fata Libelli, Paris

All Dior jewels are designed by

the forever trendy Victoire de Castellane.

Pictured above at a fancy dress event.

Fleurs d’Excès (the “Flowers of Excess,”)
Does that refer to the color or the cost? Unless of course you have beaucoup petro-dollars, then it doesn't matter. It's not that I am opposed to petro-chemical buying power. Console yourself at least these jewels utilize the latest in petrochemical-resin technology covering the gold with dazzling unnatural colors.

At a time of planetary strife how original is that?!

PR shot of Victoire on the job

For Vogue Gioiello March 2011

This is the nature of business here in France. Haute Joaillerie
inspired by serious global currents like psychotropic plants, Japanese plastic toys, manga, and graffiti ; where the toxic fairy still presides in the land of absinth.

Easter Egg Hunt

2011-04-07T14:57:00.000+02:00

I hope you have many eggs in your Easter basket

Oh La La

2011-04-05T20:08:00.000+02:00

Bijoux Baby

2011-04-05T10:25:00.000+02:00

French Revue Le Bijou, 1874

Chromolithographie

Puppy Love

2011-04-04T20:51:00.000+02:00

Elizabeth Taylor's Jewelry, the Definitive Book

2011-03-30T19:56:00.001+02:00

Brilliantly edited and compiled by Ruth A.Peltason

this book is a must have.

Van Cleef & Arpels at the Cooper Hewitt

2011-03-30T14:20:00.002+02:00

Image WWD

The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels,” at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum through June 5th.

The Exhibition is Curated by Sarah Coffin and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Coffin arranged the show around six concepts: Innovation, Transformations,

Nature as Inspiration, Exoticism, Fashion and Personalities. the keystone of

the Innovation segment is Van Cleef’s famed Mystery Setting

(also called "Invisible Setting"), which was patented in 1933.

This exhibition sounds like a must see if you are in New York.

WWD

Mildred Pierce

2011-03-28T16:46:00.000+02:00

With the remake of Mildred Pierce I think about the fortie,

the fabulous fashions, and the

Jewels of the Stars!

Joan Crawford's 75 carat step-cut amethyst ring

from Raymond C. Yard 1940's

the Owl and the Frog

2011-03-27T14:38:00.000+02:00

Harper's Bazaar 1963 frog brooch by Verdura

gold, diamonds, and emeralds

2011-03-26T11:54:00.000+01:00

Cartier France 1940's

The Moonstone

2011-03-25T20:25:00.000+01:00

Bracelet Mauboussin, gold, moonstones rubies, diamonds.

Jellyfish clip 1965 Jean Schlumberger

Elizabeth Taylor

2011-03-23T19:36:00.000+01:00

http://parisoriginals.blogspot.com/2011/03/rip-elizabeth-taylor.html

Anon

2011-03-11T11:58:00.003+01:00

Dali darling 1951
A year ago I took a break from Blogging

I will occasionally barb and jibe

Here http://parisoriginals.blogspot.com/

Gripoix

2010-04-09T10:22:00.005+02:00

Brooch by Gripoix 1980, glass, base metal-gold plated, and cut crystal.

Gripoix brooch blue "histoire de verre" 1990

I have spent my entire career designing,

and writing about fine ( precious ) jewelry.

Since moving to Paris I am becoming increasingly interested in Costume Jewelry called Bijoux Fantaisie in France.

Designer costume jewelry is every bit as intriguing with its history, designers, and in some cases unique manufacturing techniques.

In the book Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture

by Florence Muller and Patrick Sigal, quote Jean De la Fountaine:

" Everything is a fine diamond in the hands of a skillful man,

Everything becomes polished glass in the hands of a fool"

Twice in French fashion history glass (crystal) in jewelry has come to the fore. In the 18th century when glass crystal was cut with more daring and dazzle than diamonds, and again since the 1920's. Where Chanel understood this potential. Chanel fought the strict definition of real Jewelry being only precious, everything else Faux (fake or forged) Chanel and Suzanne Gripoix created some memorable pieces together.

Designs with inspirations that transcend the materials, becoming much sought-after works of art and adornment.

French Vogue 1937

Jewels by Chanel

made by Gripoix

Traditionally costume jewelry is understood to be made with non-precious metals , faux stones, and faux pearls. Here in France there has been a distinguished alliance with the Couture houses and the costume jewelry manufacturers. Today this relationship continues on the cat walks; often the jewels coming down the runway are one-of-a-kind. Later these designs are simplified and reproduced by mass production for world wide sales.

Bracelet by Gripoix for Chanel

Chanel necklace by Gripoix 1938

Gripoix was founded around 1869.

Vintage add from Parures revue des industries de la mode 1927

Augusitne Gripoix acquired the Maison Gasse at the end of the 19th century. Combined both companies had the requisite skills for full scale

Bijoux Fantaisie production. Augustine Gripoix produced jewelry for Sarah Bernhardt to much acclaim, and lots of press, this was an auspicious beginning.

Brooch by Gripoix for Nina Ricci 1970's

Gripoix continued to work throughout the twentieth century with the designers like Chanel, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Dior, Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Balmain , Yves Saint Laurent, and many others.

One of My favorite Gripoix projects was the

jewelry for one of my favorite films.

La belle et la Bete (1946)

Jewels by Gripoix art direction by Christian Berard

Oh, I just love those beasty boys especially when they give us jewels.

La Belle et La Bete by Jean Cocteau.

In 2006,

Morrocan born Marie Keslassy, a vintage jewelry collector, acquired the firm after it had declared bankruptcy, she is the brand’s new artistic director.

A selection of Venetian glass (soda lime glass) rods.

Glass is either transparent opaque or translucent ( opalescent)

Gripoix has an interesting history and a unique production process.

It is this production process that originally piqued my interest. It involves a unique form of "glass enameling" I have worked with traditional enamels for more than thirty-five years, and I can tell you this process is amazing and totally unique. This technique, by necessity, requires that each jewel be individually hand-made.

Image from Chanel at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

An array of jewels by Gripoix for Chanel

collection Mark Walsh Leslie Chin

Image from Costume Jewelry for Haute CoutureBy Florence Muller and Patrick Sigal

Gripoix atelier with a custom gas flame-working set up for glass, with wide-heat distribution.

-Technical details, more than you ever wanted to know-

The metal frames are bronze. They are either cast in one piece with no seams, or welded if there are seams. All the mechanical parts are attached by welding before the "glass enameling". Most fine jewelry is soldered but the heat necessary for the torch-fired-glass-enamel process exceeds the temperature of traditional jewelry soldering (the joint would pop open).

Welding is the coalescence or fusion of the metals forming the joint. This type of connection can withstand much more heat in processing.

Image from Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture

Brooch by Gripoix for Chanel 1930

Necklace by Gripoix

-More technical details-

The glass work is similar to torch fired glass bead making which has been practiced for centuries in Murano Italy. Gripoix is basically making faux cabochons in their own settings by filling in the empty metal enclosures with molten torch-fired viscus glass. The Venetian glass rods are dripped, pressed, rolled, and shaped with HEAT!

After each piece is cooled, slowly in an controlled fashion to prevent the glass from fracturing from thermal shock. The metal is cleaned, polished, and colored to look like gold. This is a from of electroplating.

I am thrilled this company will continue into the 21 century.

Often I work out technical details in my studio.

I am sort of a technical detective by nature, if something intrigues me.

The torch is melting the glass and I am about to drip and shape it into the metal frame.

After several failed attempts I finally understood the process.

A contemporary jeweled bracelet by Gripoix

Go Go Chanel

2010-02-24T23:32:00.003+01:00

Going going gone after Friday.

Vintage Haute Couture sale Chanel 1910-2010

http://www.cornette.auction.fr
Drouot-Richelieu Salle 5

Thursday February 25,26

Back of the dress above

More little black dresses

Don't forget the accessories!

Grin and Bear it

2010-02-22T17:34:00.008+01:00

Jean Schlumberger for Elsa Schiaparelli

Polar bear rug, with ostrich Kelly

Diamonds Are a Boy's Best Friend

2009-06-11T16:06:00.045+02:00

I saw this guy on the Paris metro wearing what looked like a large diamond watch. I'm sorry for the poor quality photo, believe me the watch was dazzling. Whether it was real or not I don't know. I do know there is an entire industry of flashy fake jewels available on the net from places like thugfashion.com

This sighting started me thinking about men , jewelry, diamonds, and watches.

These watches range in price from 165,000 to 495,000 Euros.

We moved to Paris in 1998 so

I missed the whole 'Bling Thing' -the coining of the phrase, the music, the artists, and the impulse.

I read about an aborted auction called "Hip Hop's Crown Jewels" now indefinitely postponed.

Pharrell Williams

William's necklace pre-sale estimate $200,000.00 to $250,000.00

Lil Jon and his record-breaking Crunk ain't dead necklace Photograph: Stuart Ramson/AP
from the guardian.co.uk

Lil Jon's Diamond necklace pre-sale estimate of $200,000.00-$250,000.00

From http://www.hyperbeast.com the original press release for the postponed auction

"At the top of the flossing food-chain for musical artists, this upcoming auction titled Hip Hop’s Crown Jewels will feature jewelery from some of hip-hop’s most prolific acts as the auction aims to raise funds for Russell Simmons’ Rush Community Affiairs. Led by the expertise of Minya Oh, author of Bling Bling: Hip Hop’s Crown Jewels and Alia Varsano, Worldwide Head of Contemporary Jewelry at Phillips de Pury & Company, the collection features numerous memorable and important pieces.

Book cover 2005

The extensive of artists with pieces involved include Jay-Z, Notorious B.I.G., Alicia Keys, 50 Cent, Cam’ron, Diddy, Eminem, Kanye West, LL Cool J, Pharrell, Nas, Slick Rick and Tupac; The roster is a veritable list of who’s who of the Hip-Hop world. Within the collection are sub-themes such as “The Golden Era of Hip-Hop”, East and West Coast Rivalries: Biggie Smalls and Tupac Shakur, and Bling Bling and Global Domination."

From the http://guardiane.co.uk

Recession forces rap's kings of bling to tone it down

'People think these big pieces are blindin' but they be like D-quality diamonds, and when you try and sell them you learn they ain't worth a thing," said Slim Williams, who founded Cash Money Records with his brother, Bryan "Birdman" Williams, in 1991. "You can't be doing it like we did it no more."

Famous men in diamonds from the recent the past.

Liberace
This guy was a glittery showman "icein it up" for most of his career.

Elton John In Paris 1985 wearing a Diamond and platinum brooch from 1900.

Elton John's Brooch
Photo Sotheby's New York 1992

The real kings of Bling were the princes of India from the provinces of Patiala, Alwar, and Baroda. Connoisseurship of the finest gems was a tradition handed down through successive generations. Princely jewelry training started when they were very young.

The four young sons of the Maharajah of Patiala

The Maharajah Of Patiala 1911 wearing some of his diamonds and natural pearls

Necklace mounted by Cartier in 1928 for the Maharajah of Patiala
with the De Beers yellow diamond 224.65 carats in the center.

Khande Roe, Gaekwar of Baroda, had this necklace made to display both the
Star of the South and the 78.5-carat English Dresden below it. Photo circa 1880.

128.48-carat stone star of the south

In India Gems were believed to have a curative and astrological significance. They were held in high esteem by the Maharajahs as a reflection of their princely magnificence.
The Indian princes Had the good sense to have their gems remounted by the finest French jewelery houses firms like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, and Boucheron.

Had the Hip Hop Artists at the height of their individual fame, gone to say, Cartier, to make up their 'Bling Bling', they would have something which would have retained value even in today's market.
Recently according to WWD some of the business savvy Hip-Hop artists have been Harnessing Hip-Hop's muscle. With 50 Cent's fragrance deal, and Kayne West's association with LVMH

Kayne West and Marc Jacobs

I also love what these guys are doing to the language, turning nouns into verbs Like "Rolexed up"

Diamonds and Rhubarb

French Jewelry Today, Part 6-Chaumet

French Jewelry Today Part 5-Mauboussin

French jewelry Today, Part 4-Van Cleef and Arpels, 22 Place Vendôme

Part 3, Boucherone 26 Place Vendôme

French Jewelry Today, Part 2, Mellerio dits Meller

French Jewelry Today, Part 1- Cartier

It's a Secret

The Pink Panther Meets Cartier

Context At A Glance

Now and Then

Suzanne Belperron, the Genuine Article

Going Batty

Do You Believe in Magic

Kate and Fred

With Pride

Ad Sense

If You've Got It Flaunt It ! Part 1

A Walk around Place Vendôme Part Two, Cartier

Eye on Place Vendôme as a Guest Blogger, Part 1

Place Vendôme

Bully for You

When is it Original?

April 24, 2011

Dior's Little Shop of Horrors

Easter Egg Hunt

Oh La La

Bijoux Baby

Puppy Love

Elizabeth Taylor's Jewelry, the Definitive Book

Van Cleef & Arpels at the Cooper Hewitt

Mildred Pierce

the Owl and the Frog

Tweet

The Moonstone

Elizabeth Taylor

Anon

Gripoix

Go Go Chanel

Grin and Bear it

Diamonds Are a Boy's Best Friend

Recession forces rap's kings of bling to tone it down